Have you ever passed an imposing gateway at the side of the road, at the entrance to a winding lane that disappears out of sight? Or discovered an old stone wall that seems to go on for ever and wondered who built it and why? Or admired an ornamental cottage, perhaps in the middle of nowhere or surrounded by a modern housing estate and pondered over its history? These clues, along with snippets of old stories told by my elderly relatives and the sweeping views across the great river to stone pinnacles glittering in the sunlight, are what led me to discover the Lost Houses of the Clyde Valley.
Cambusnethan Priory, the fairytale castle of my childhood – then and now
I grew up in an isolated house down an old farm road on the cusp of the valley and, as an only child after my brother passed away, I was the very definition of an introvert. I made up stories for myself and explored the countryside, dreaming about the nearby fairytale castle where I imagined a princess was imprisoned and I would have to rescue her. Later, my father took me on long drives along the winding Clyde Valley Road at night and we would explore together, finding the ruins of Craignethan Castle and the great tower house of Hallbar, as well as countless lodges and gatehouses, in most cases guarding roads that led to nowhere. I remember craning my neck, trying to catch a glimpse from the car of the ghostly castle which lay beyond, only to find out it was long gone. I realised there was a forgotten historic wonderland all around us that we never learnt about in school.
Traces of past: gate posts, walled gardens... and rhododendrons!
Over the years, I found out that the valley had once been lined with castles, mansions and palaces, some with an original 15th-century tower house at their heart. In the early years of the 20th century, many had been demolished while others fell prey to decay and vandalism, sometimes even fire and, in a few cases, under-mining... literally! It was a way of life that came to an end due to many factors – the Great War, the rise of industry, the Great Depression – and yet every lost estate had its own particular story. The list of names of the Lost Houses is fascinating in itself: Mauldslie, Milton Lockhart, Stonebyres, Carfin, Auchtyfardle, Dalserf, Auchlochan, Jerviston... but the Clyde Valley is not alone in this respect – the loss of the great houses occurred all across the United Kingdom and beyond.
This summer, I returned to the Clyde Valley once again to look for traces of the past. My quest took me to old estates, along tree-lined avenues, down deep glens and across rushing streams. Some substantial ruins still remain, such as Eastend House and Carmichael House, which stand in the great shadow of Tinto Hill. Other estates have been turned into country parks, such as Chatelherault and Carfin. I wandered the old lanes, admiring the ancient rows of trees and coming across fallen stone gateways that had once stood proudly.
Discovering Carmichael House and Eastend House in the summer of 2024
So why is this history important, and how can we harness it for the benefit of everyone in the local community? In fact, many of the green spaces we love today, such as our public parks, were once country estates. In many cases, they provide a safe place - a refuge - where one can walk for miles in relative peace and quiet, away from busy roads. The Clyde Walkway is a wonderful long-distance walking path that follows the river and allows one to get close to both nature and the history of the area. My dream would be to make this landscape even more accessible by restoring one of the ruined houses as a multi-purpose visitor centre for the local community.
In post-industrial areas, access to green space for all is increasingly important, and understanding the historic landscape fosters community spirit. I have witnessed this through my earlier work running the campaign to restore Cambusnethan Priory and attending the Community Heritage Conference, as well as through our local history group page. Other great local community projects include the restoration of Carluke High Mill to provide education facilities, exhibition space and cottage gardening facilities, still a very important part of the Clyde Valley heritage – the area was once known as the Orchard Country.
And finally, perhaps most important of all, these landscapes tell a story. In many cases the history is not written down but passed on through the generations of people who had ancestors living on or near these estates. Not all stories are nice and, of course, there was a huge gulf between those who owned the houses and the people working in the neighbouring mines who provided much of the wealth. But today through this shared history I believe we can all stake a claim to these places and see them for what they are now – quite simply beautiful, lush green landscapes for all... and a place for adventure!
Mauldslie Castle and the historic estate map from NLS Maps: https://maps.nls.uk/geo/explore/side-by-side/
To end this article, I would like to share with you an amazing resource which has been invaluable in my studies of the designed landscapes of the past – the side-by-side map view from the National Library of Scotland. This allows one to see the designed landscape of the past beside the aerial view of today. I have discovered many lost houses and lost estates using this tool, which covers the whole of Great Britain and, for the budding archaeologist, also LIDAR, which illuminates hidden details of the historic landscape. So, next time you go for a walk in a local park or along a tree-lined avenue in the countryside, have a look at the old map. You might just find that you are walking along the hidden drive to a lost house...
For stories from the countryside, gardens, history and architecture, follow Christine - a Scottish physicist in a German farmhouse - on Instagram @RedSequoiaDawn.
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